Diary of a travel video: part 3
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by Brian Deakin |
Friday 22nd March (afternoon)
After visiting the Valley of the Kings we cross over to the East bank to
the temple of Karnac. This is by far the most impressive of all the temples
that we have visited. Karnac was the richest and most powerful temple in
ancient Egypt. It covered an area of 247 acres and could easily fit St. Peters,
Milan and Notre Dame Cathedrals all with-in its walls. The roadway to Karnac
is lined with an avenue of Spinx, which reach as far as Luxor three kilometres
away.
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We wander through a densely packed group of 134 colonnades, decorated to
look like marsh reeds and papyrus that once created the impression of a primeval
forest in dim light. The centre of the forest is dominated by a dozen towering
columns 69 feet high .At the very heart of the temple lies the inner sanctuary,
the holy of holy, into which only the Pharaoh and high priest were allowed
to enter. The High priest was attached to the outside by a chain so if he
should collapse or die whilst inside he could be dragged out without the
need for any other person to enter. So strong was their belief.
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At the other end of the highway of Spinx is the temple of Luxor. This temple
is not as large as Karnac but nevertheless very impressive. By now it is
very late afternoon and the tall columns cast long shadows across the desert.
We have had a very full day and look forward to dinner and a good nights
sleep. However, it is our last night on the Nile and there is to be a farewell
party on board. In the spirit of the event everyone dresses in Egyptian Callabra
(a one-piece night-shirt type garment) and we enjoy cocktails before the
entertainment begins.
The highlights of the evening are two acts, the first is a belly dancer
accompanied by a local band. She performs an Egyptian version of the Dance
of the Seven Veils whilst at the same time performing amazing acrobatics
with her abdomen, thighs and hips. In Egypt Belly dancers are amongst the
wealthiest people in the country! A male dancer who spins like a spinning
top for at least ten minutes without stopping follows this act. His whirling
brightly coloured skirts go up and down creating figures of eight. At the
end of his performance we fully expect to see him fall over the side with
dizziness. But it didn't happen.
Saturday 23rd March
At 7.30am we transfer to Luxor airport for our Air Egypt flight to Sharm
El Sheikh. After an uneventful flight we are met by Bassani Seid (smiling
Bob) he is our new representative in the Sinai. Our hotel in Sharm El Sheikh
is a marvel, sprawling and very Mediterranean in style. These white and blue
buildings surround a large, lotus shaped swimming pool with climbing red
and pink Bougainvillaea everywhere. This town is very modern and has risen
from the desert sand within the last ten years. A tourists' mecca!
Our afternoon is occupied with exploring the shops and beachfront and once
again escaping the touts! We have two days to fill and are given the option
of several trips. We choose two and within a few hours we are on our way
to join a tribe of Bedouins for dinner. Our transport departs from the hotel
at 4.30pm and we drive for thirty-five minutes out into the desert. Once
there we are greeted by the tribesmen who will escort us up into the hills.
Amongst peals of laughter we mount our camels, assisted by a group of Bedouin
boys. A young Arab and his wife from Dubai laugh at our discomfort on the
backs of these huge beasts and demonstrate a cross-legged pose for us to
adopt. To our relief it works. Brian was beginning to think he might never
be the same again.
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The young Bedouin boys are in fine fettle, singing and joking as they lead
us off into the wild expanses and the setting sun. Just as the last rays
of light disappear over the hilltops we arrive at the Bedouin tents. Our
eyes widen at the magical setting for the hillside is dotted with candlelight.
Making use of old plastic milk bottles that have been cut in half, filled
with sand and then a candle placed in each one. The mountains glow, bathed
in this flickering light. They lead us up a path to the hilltop and far below
and away we see the twinkling lights of Sharm El Sheikh in the distance.
Our dinner consists of unleavened bread, baked in front of us on the open
fire on top of an upturned wok, goat casserole, chicken cooked on a spit
and plenty of rice. With a ceiling of stars and live ethnic music to relax
and entertain us, what more could we ask for.
Sunday 24th March
Today's trip is a 4-wheel drive coach ride to the shores of the Red Sea,
a place called Ras Mohamed. The coach is full from pick-ups from nearby hotels
and we take off into the featureless dessert for the next two hours. The
first stop is to inspect a deep hole in the ground caused by an earthquake
nearly five years ago. Filled with fresh water it demonstrates the depth
of the water table. Twenty minutes later we arrive on the shores of the Red
Sea.
The sparkling blue water beckons and with-in minutes Brian is donning snorkelling
gear hired from the local dive shop. The Red Sea is reputed to be one of
the world's top diving spots and indeed a large number of businesses are
devoted to the sport. And it is soon obvious as to how it earned this reputation
for within a hundred yards of the beach the underwater scenery is incredible.
Brightly coloured tropical fish and corals that would defy any King's treasure
are everywhere and the water is crystal clear. Pat, unfortunately, had to
be content with a dip at the water edge due to a twisted foot.
Continued ... in part four we go on
to St Catherine's Monastery, the port of Aquaba and Jordan.
Part 1 | Part 2
| Part 4 | Part
5 | Behind the camera
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